I am on a mission to see all 50 U.S. states before my 60th birthday, which is nearing. Last summer I traveled to the Midwest and enjoyed skirting all five Great Lakes and visiting a few states left to get to. I convinced my dear friend since ninth grade, Tammy, to join me. We both agreed to eat our way through the trip, consuming only local cuisine and foods.
After flying into Buffalo, New York, we headed to Niagara Falls State Park, on the U.S. side. We stopped at DiCamillo Bakery, a century-old, family-owned bakery that rolls fresh bread daily.
We crossed into Canada and at magnificent Niagara Falls, did all the tourist stuff, the Maid of the Mist and “Behind the Falls” tour.
In Ontario we ate at Massimo’s Italian Fallsview Restaurant, headed by one of Canada’s most prominent chefs, Massimo Capra. I had a delicious Caesar salad, topped with crisp prosciutto, and a lovely linguine pescatore, seasoned to perfection. We had an amazing dinner while viewing the falls from above — breathtaking. A fireworks and light show brightened the falls at night. It was a perfect end to the first day.
After a good night’s sleep, we drove to Lake Ontario. En route, we spotted an organic farm and market named Always June. There, we loaded up on freshly picked strawberries, warm baked chocolate chip cookies and other locally grown goods. Upon arriving in Niagara-On-The-Lake, we were awed by its beauty. This town, with many cozy restaurants and blooming gardens, is worth seeing. High tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel is a must. The view of Lake Ontario was majestic.
The next morning, we drove Interstate 90 and exited frequently to discover lovely lake towns with beautiful lighthouses on Lake Erie. Once in downtown Cleveland, we had brunch at Cordelia’s, a local farm-to-table culinary experience led by chef Vinnie Cimino. I had a burger box, a 1921-style burger with smoked Cheddar, pickles, onions and a secret sauce, which was excellent. Our dinner that evening was at Marble Room Steaks & Raw Bar, an old bank converted into a restaurant. I selected a bone-in rib eye steak, which was cooked to perfection. The chef complimented us with whipped potatoes and garlic-chive butter. For dessert, we had the guava and blackberry swirl crème brûlée. The food was superb and the ambience, extraordinary.
While in Ohio, we traveled through Amish Country, discovering cultural and historical treasures of its people. At Hershberger’s Farm & Bakery in Holmes County, we had our fill of delicious baked breads and pastries, homemade cheeses and meats, and fresh produce. We continued towards Toledo, detouring to view Lake Erie from its shorelines.
Our next stop was Charlevoix, Michigan — we loved everything about it. We stayed at The Earl, a boutique hotel with a great rooftop bar offering a view of Lake Michigan and live music. We visited Lost Cellars, owned by retired doctors who discovered the art of making wine … and amazing pizzas.
We dined at Grey Gables, a restaurant dating to 1936. The entire experience was phenomenal. I started with the B.L.T Wedge, featuring smoked bacon, blue cheese crumbles and dressing. For my entrée I had pan roasted Norwegian salmon with a grain mustard and balsamic glaze, couscous, crispy leeks and lemon beurre blanc.
Charlevoix is noteworthy for its beautiful bright red, square-shaped lighthouse and a group of fascinating stone structures built in the early 1900s: the Mushroom Houses. Next, we stopped in Petoskey to see its beautiful downtown area full of unique boutiques and galleries.
We ferried over to Mackinac Island, where horse-drawn carriages, bicycles or walking is how you see its sights. We rented bicycles and rode the entire 8.2- mile island loop. The views of Lake Huron were glorious. The Grand Hotel, a National Historic Landmark, around since 1887 and with a rich history, is a must see and stay. On its grounds is Woods Restaurant, a remote, sophisticated Bavarian hunting lodge once used as a shelter and for gatherings. The Woods’ menu showcased a field-to-farm concept. I ordered a shrimp bisque followed by butter poached lake trout with braised leeks, crisp potato pancakes and crème fraîche, and caviar. For dessert, we tried the chocolate pot de crème with flaked gold and sea salt. It all was as delicious as it sounds. We couldn’t leave the island without trying Original Murdick’s Fudge. I’ll just say I want to go back there for the fudge!
Back on the mainland, we headed northwest to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. There it was, in all its grandeur: Lake Superior. We arrived in Houghton, where our foodie highlight was Ambassador, a family-owned restaurant since 1965 with an award-winning reputation built on creating exceptional pizzas. We stayed at the swanky Vault Hotel, once a bank.
The Counting Room, a speakeasy snuggled into the basement, serves handcrafted cocktails in a unique atmosphere. Michigan, with its quaint towns, local dining experiences and beautiful lighthouses, enthralled me.
We stopped in Wisconsin and Minnesota for a few nights then hit our final destination, Fargo, North Dakota. It had a cosmopolitan and urban vibe to it. We stayed at Hotel Donaldson, in the center of a revitalized downtown with great shops, eateries and entertainment. Its fabulous rooftop bar afforded views of the city and the marvelous sunset. We ate at Rosewild, showcasing rich regional flavors and fresh produce in its dishes. Its light pink Paloma fresh grapefruit juice cocktail, my favorite of the trip, was rimmed with volcanic salt and a grapefruit slice.
It was a marvelous summer full of new discoveries. We stuck to our commitment to only try local cuisines, breweries, bakeries, wineries and coffee houses, which made our journey even more enjoyable and memorable.
