Smoky Perfection: Valley Pitmasters Create Innovative BBQ With 956 Flair

PHOTOS BY DELCIA LOPEZ

The Rio Grande Valley is no stranger to meat-laced wood smoke. Football games, birthday parties, weddings and Tuesday nights have always been great reasons to prender el bote, or light the pit. Platters of perfectly grilled/smoked chicken, fajitas, brisket and sausage are everywhere, and these time-honored South Texas traditions have crossed over into the arena of commercial barbecue.

For decades, the only place to get “real Texas BBQ” was north of the Valley. But these days, you don’t have to travel far for that smoky, rich, bark-covered brisket. Perfectly smoked beef or pork ribs and house-made sausage are just around the corner.

Our Valley BBQ can compete against any in the state, and you can quote me on that. From Central Texas style to Tex-Mex style or a combination of both, the Valley has put itself on the map in the golden, smoky world of Texas BBQ. And everyone knows Texas BBQ is unrivaled.

The folks responsible for some of the best BBQ in the state are the pit masters, sweaty, smoky, tired, unbelievably dedicated creatures of almost mythical status. They take all knowledge — from driveway BBQs to working under other pit masters — and put it on a plate, just for us. Meet four noteworthy Valley pit masters making waves in the barbecue revolution:

VARGAS BBQ

Edinburg, Texas

Style: South Texas BBQ

Pit Master: Ram Vargas

Ram Vargas makes heavenly barbecue, so it is fitting his inspiration comes from above, as well. In 2015, he was 31 when he was diagnosed with kidney failure. With no direction, depressed by his bleak prognosis, he found solace in selling BBQ plates out of his trunk. It wasn’t until 2021 that he opened his brick-and-mortar place.

During that journey, Vargas’ health improved, much to the bewilderment of his doctors. His kidneys resumed normal, healthy function. “Any motivation I have today, I have to give it to the Lord. I had no motivation to live, to tell you the truth. He put a fire in me, he gave me goals,” Vargas says.

Vargas paid attention to other pit masters, then took existing barbecue concepts and made them his own. Vargas BBQ was named as one of Texas Monthly’s 25 Best New and Improved BBQ Joints in Texas in 2023. Vargas smokes on a 250-gallon offset smoker powered by oak. His own homemade rub seasons the meat, and sides like green spaghetti and charro beans complete the uniquely Tex-Mex BBQ journey.

TEXICAN BBQ CO.

Olmito, Texas

Style: South Texas Fusion

Pit Master: Marc Garza

Marc Garza doesn’t do anything halfway. He epitomizes the term “bigger than life,” and so does his barbecue. He joined a BBQ team 17 years ago.

Having derived his skills from his mom, his palate yearned for unique flavors that were the driving force behind his original South Texas style of barbecue. “We happily think outside the box,” he says. “How can we make traditional barbecue better?”

His desire to be the best requires him to use top-quality ingredients and innovative recipes. He does not compromise. Garza and his crew have won three times in competitions to benefit local charities.

The barbecue at Texican is hickory fired on custom pellet smokers. Garza uses his own proprietary South Texas spice blend, which is available in local stores. Scrumptious BBQ sandwiches, loaded sweet potatoes and BBQ bowls round out the menu, along with fresh, unique sides.

“So … the idea of eating delicious Texas BBQ is no longer planning to make a stop on your way to Austin. It’s right next door. The Valley is now at the top of the BBQ world, and we have our own cultural, regional twist that makes it that much better!”

RIO SMOKE CATERING CO.

Rio Hondo, Texas

Style: True South Texas BBQ

Pit Master: Al Lino

Owner Al Lino began his barbecue journey at age 13, but it wasn’t until he decided to dedicate himself to the art of competition BBQ that his craft really took shape.

Today, he uses South Texas mesquite, smoking on 1,000-gallon and 500-gallon offset smokers. “It’s true South Texas BBQ. We use mesquite, we use Mexican spices,” he says. Sides like coleslaw with cilantro and mac and cheese complement his delectable brisket, pulled pork and ribs.

Lino and his wife competed in Arkansas in the Final Table of the prestigious World Food Championships. As one of 11 competitors to achieve this, he sits among the elite. This, along with a pile of trophies, makes him plenty qualified to serve excellent barbecue to the masses in the RGV.

GW’S BBQ CATERING CO.

San Juan, Texas

Style: Central Texas Style

Pit Master: George “G” Watts III

George Watts III, or “G” as he is widely known, is a pit master, along with his dad, George Watts Jr. When the younger Watts was about 10, he already was tending the pit at home with his dad, a definite hint of things to come. Learning from his parents and grandmother when he was so young laid his foundations.

Watts has always been competitive, early in life in sports and now in barbecue. He’s a self-driven perfectionist, and this is reflected in everything from his impeccably smoked prime briskets to his fresh, innovative sides.

GW’s made Texas Monthly’s Best 25 New and Improved BBQ Joints in Texas last year, and was in the magazine’s Best Bites for its Peacemaker Sandwich in 2022. It also was featured as one of CNN’s Best Bites, and received a Best Brisket vote in the Valley. Watts smokes his meat on a 1,000-gallon offset smoker and fires with post oak; he seasons with salt and pepper. GW’s also sells house-made sausage that will make you giggle a bit.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

So … the idea of eating delicious Texas barbecue is no longer a plan to stop on your way to Austin. It’s right next door. The Valley is now at the top of the BBQ world, and we have our own cultural, regional twist that makes it that much better!